Climbing in Haiming and Ötztal

On my first climbing trip in 2024, I tackled multi-pitch routes “Inntalsynfonie” and “Südwind” in the Inntal and Ötztal with some friends, enjoying fantastic weather. Both routes are highly recommendable for their thrilling climbs and scenic beauty.

Over the weekend, along with three friends, I embarked on the first multi-pitch climbing adventures of the year at Haiming in the Inn Valley and in the Ötztal. We were greeted with fantastic weather, basking in abundant sunshine and enjoying temperatures soaring above 20 degrees Celsius on both days.

Our journey began with a drive of about 1.5 hours from Penzberg to the south-facing Geierwand in Haiming, located nearly at the gateway to the Ötztal. Here, we tackled the climbing route “Inntalsynfonie”, rated at a difficulty level of 7- according to the sign at the base, while another team climbed a route a bit to our left. This route presented us with 9 pitches, of which we linked the second and third. After a brief rest on a spacious ledge, we proceeded to the route’s more challenging second segment, especially the first two pitches. The sixth pitch, in particular, seemed harder than its rating (possibly due to broken holds?). Notably, the entire route was excellently secured, with a high concentration of bolts in the most challenging sections.

Descending was achievable solely through rappelling, using a 60m double rope above and below the large ledge twice. Post-ledge, we opted to rappel down the climbing route itself, a decision that, after discussing with another climber, proved to be superior. After hours under the intense sun, reaching the base of the wall was a relief.

Following a short drive, we checked into Villa Ambach in the Ötztal, where we spent the night in a lovely, clean room with a terrace and savored a delightful breakfast the next morning. A brief evening stroll of about 3.5 km took us to Ötz, where we met up with the other climbers at the Feel Free restaurant, concluding our evening with delicious meals.

On the second day, our attention turned to the “Südwind” route on the Nösslachwand, positioned further down the valley and facing west-northwest. With the wall’s right side still damp, we unanimously chose “Südwind,” a route comprising 5 pitches up to the 6th grade. Unlike the limestone at Geierwand, the harder bedrock here (gneiss, granite, or similar) offered more friction climbing. Despite the cold on the approach to the wall base, conditions warmed up quickly within the route, especially from the fourth pitch onwards as the sun began to illuminate the wall. The final and most challenging pitch was a standout moment, navigating a corner and a small overhang, which necessitated a quick decision on the direction to climb – a segment I managed to conquer on-site.

Concluding our adventure with a picnic by the car and another climbing session in a nearby climbing garden in Oberried, we made a brief stop in Oetz for ice cream and coffee, followed by a smooth drive back. Both multi-pitch routes proved to be rewarding and exceptionally well-secured, earning our wholehearted recommendation.

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