Matthias Munz

From a village near Freiburg. Living with my family in Penzberg, Bavaria. Drawn to the new, the hidden, the essential. Freethinker. Adventurer.

7 minute read

We spent this year’s fall break (early November) in the Ligurian coastal town of Levanto and the nearby Cinque Terre National Park – where the five villages of Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore cling spectacularly to the cliffs above the sea. The weather forecast predicted good weather starting on Monday, so we set off very early in the morning with our campervan from Penzberg in Upper Bavaria to treat ourselves to a few days of Mediterranean feeling before the end of the year and to experience the villages on foot.

Gallery

When we arrived in Levanto, there were lots of surfers and beautiful waves. Sunset on Via Dante Alighieri in Levanto. Levanto train station, the starting point for our hikes. A look back on the hiking trail between Menterosso and Vernazza. A short rest in the shade. Vernazza, our stopover destination for the day. After a break in Vernazza, we leave the village again and descend the bay via steps. Stopover at the Azienda Agricola for fresh juices. A snake climbs over a steep rock using a small tree in front of it. Arrival in Corniglia, where our hiking day ends. Sunset in Levanto. Manarola, the starting point of our second day of hiking. The cemetery of Manarola, beautifully situated above the sea. We circle Manarola on a high path surrounded by vineyards. The view stretches back to Monterosso. The town of Riomaggiore, from where we make a detour to La Spezia after a long break.

Cinque Terre tips

Accomodation

At the beginning of November, almost all campsites in Levanto are already closed. Only Camping Acqua Dolce is open almost all year round, which is why we chose it. The campsite is conveniently located and you can reach the beach and the lively streets of Levanto in 5 minutes. The three of us paid €52 per night for our campervan and electricity, which we found a bit expensive, but it is said to be rather expensive around Cinque Terre in general. Even in November, it is advisable to reserve a spot in advance. We didn’t do that and were happy to be assigned a spot further back in the terraced complex. In general, the campsite is more suitable for smaller vehicles (campers, campervans, and small motorhomes). Only at the front entrance is there enough space for larger motorhomes. The sanitary facilities are fine and are cleaned regularly. We were bothered by the lack of soap in the toilet and the very high toilet keys (not suitable for short people).

As an alternative, there is another RV parking area (Area Sosta Camper) in Levanto, very close to the train station. However, according to the mostly poor reviews, it is quite expensive at €36 for 24 hours and is located directly on a main road. Another parking area is the Area Sosta Camper - Il Poggio located outside the town. It is situated slightly above the access road to Monterosso, the northernmost village of the Cinque Terre.

If you want to park freely, quietly, and close to the sea and don’t need external power, you might also consider the parking lot in the neighboring town of Bonassola. Bonassola is also connected to the coastal railway line between Genoa and La Spezia, meaning that Cinque Terre can also be easily visited by train from there. During our visit to Bonassola (Bonassola can be reached from Levanto by bike or on foot via an old railway line), the beautiful village was deserted and the parking lot was almost completely empty. Judging by the few motorhomes, free perpendicular parking seems to be tolerated, at least in the off-season. Right next to the parking lot and generally in all the villages we visited, there is free access to fresh water via taps. Further along the railway line towards Genoa, there are other coastal towns with campsites and parking spaces that are suitable as a starting point for a visit to Cinque Terre.

Hiking trails

The Sentiero Azzurro is the most famous hiking trail in the Cinque Terre. It connects the five villages. Of course, there are many other hiking routes in the region. From Levanto, you can either hike to Monterosso, the northernmost of the five villages, or take the train, which is what we did. A list and detailed descriptions of the hiking sections of the Sentiero Azzurro can be found at cinqueterre.eu.com. A physical hiking map can be purchased on site, for example at the tourist information office at the train station. We used the map app Komoot and that was perfectly adequate. Almost all sections of the Sentiero Azzurro are subject to a fee during the high season and are only free to use from November to mid-March. Lucky for us. Although we did meet other hikers on our hikes, overall there was very little going on, even in the villages, which was very pleasant.

The villages

We found all five villages (Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore) worth seeing. We particularly remember the view of the villages with their many colorful houses and the pedestrian tunnels that connect the train platform with the busy streets in Manarola and Riomaggiore, for example. We found the many tourist traps less appealing. Especially when eating, we often had the impression that the quality did not match the rather high prices.

By train

We used the train on both days of our hike and were completely satisfied. We always bought single tickets from the ticket machines at the respective train stations just before departure, and payment was easy using our smartphones in combination with a credit card. Prices vary depending on the season and ranged from €2.50 to €3.50 per person for trips between Levanto and La Spezia, regardless of the distance. This seemed significantly cheaper to us than purchasing the Cinque Terre Card, which includes unlimited travel. However, the card also includes the fees for the hiking trails during the high season. Further information about the trains (including train timetables) and the card can be found here. It was great that the toilets at the stations (for example in Levanto) were almost always free and clean.

Best season

We were lucky with the weather and had sunshine every day with air temperatures of 20-22 degrees, which was ideal for hiking. In the evenings, however, as soon as the sun went down, it quickly cooled down significantly. We were therefore very glad that we had brought our warm jackets with us. We had the electric heating on in the campervan every evening. It should be noted that the hiking trails from place to place usually climb first (100-300 meters) before reaching the next bay or town via a high-altitude trail. Whether this is enjoyable in summer when temperatures are high is something everyone must decide for themselves. However, the region also offers other activities. For example, on the day we arrived, there were many surfers on the water and quite a few (e-)mountain bikers at the campsite.

Day 1: Arrival & beach

  • Departure at around 3 a.m. in Upper Bavaria, smooth journey on the Brenner motorway
  • Shopping at Ekom Supermarkt just before Levanto; good supermarket overall, but the sausage/meat counter wasn’t that great; there are plenty of places to buy food in Levanto itself
  • Arrival in Levanto around noon and check-in at the Camping Acqua Dolce campsite; after lunch and a nap, walk to the beach
  • Explored the bay and watched the many surfers

Day 2: Cinque Terre

  • Walk to the train station in Levanto and take the train to Monterosso (one stop towards La Spezia)
  • 9 km hike: Monterosso - Vernazza - Corniglia
  • Break in Vernazza by the water with food we brought with us; ice cream didn’t taste good
  • Between Vernazza and Corniglia, stop at the Farm Shop - Azienda Agricola Sentiero Azzurro Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre; Fresh juices and a magnificent view of the sea; there is also the Bar Il Gabbiano nearby, but it was closed when we were there
  • Coffee and sweet pastries at Bar Pan e Vin in Corniglia
  • Then descent to the train station and return to Levanto
  • Walk back to the campsite via Via Dante Alighieri, always towards the sun

Day 3: Market and old railway line

  • Visit the weekly market at the Passeggiata a Mare
  • Followed by a walk along the old railway line to Bonassola and then on to Framura; highly recommended
  • Return to Levanto by train; the route to the train station in Framura is quite adventurous and not so easy to find: first down the stairs to the small harbor, then through two tunnels
  • Delicious focaccia (Ligurian flatbread made from yeast dough) in various varieties at the bakery Panificio Raso
  • Swimming at the beach in the afternoon

Day 4: Cinque Terre & La Spezia

  • Train ride to Manarola and 3.5 km hike to Riomaggiore; we opted for the high trail, but there is also a flat hiking trail right by the water that leads to Riomaggiore.
  • Coffee and snacks at the Lo Scalo Lounge Bar; it was okay
  • Continued journey by train to La Spezia, strolled through the main shopping street and ate delicious ice cream at Gelateria Gusto La Spezia
  • Back in Levanto and enjoyed the sunset on the promenade; a meeting place for locals in the morning and evening
  • In the evening, stopped at Osteria Tumelin near the campsite, as the restaurant Totano Blu was closed; very nice atmosphere, but the pizza base wasn’t fresh

Day 5: Return journey & Lazise (Lake Garda)

  • Stopover in Lazise on Lake Garda, we always enjoy it here
  • We parked here
  • Stopped at Gipi’s Bar, played cards, and enjoyed the sun
  • The plan was actually to stay overnight in Arco and the surrounding area again, but we ended up driving through

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